The UK seaside town loved by pensioners where OAPs now say ‘you’re only safe when dead’ | UK | Travel

On a sunny but freezing autumnal day, Eastbourne feels calm and quiet. One thing clearly stands out – it is full of pensioners roaming around its sunlit streets. Cruelly dubbed ‘God’s Waiting Room‘, in 2022, 24% of the population in Eastbourne was aged 65 and over, higher than the England average of 19%.

At first glance, Eastbourne looks like a truly appealing town for retirement. Founded in the mid-1880s as an exclusive retreat “for gentlemen, by gentlemen”, it quickly became a magnet for artists and high society. Figures such as Lewis Carroll, Charles Dickens, and Claude Debussy all sought inspiration or leisure along its shores, and the town has welcomed numerous royal visitors over the years. Yet behind its elegant façade of classy hotels and stunning views lies a more complex reality. Eastbourne can feel both vibrant and culturally rich – it even hosted the 2023 Turner Prize – while at the same time showing signs of neglect and decline. As The Telegraph reports, a 2024 study using Office for National Statistics data found Eastbourne to be the third most miserable place in the country.

Conservative councillor Robert Smart, a pensioner himself, is well aware of the complex reality. He meets us at Eastbourne’s seafront Bandstand, a major outdoor live music venue dubbed “the busiest Bandstand on planet earth”. In front of him, the 1872 pier stretches into the sea and, further along, the shingle beach runs all the way to Sovereign Harbour – the largest composite marina complex in northern Europe. It is here that Smart makes the case for why Eastbourne still deserves its “Sunshine Coast” label, and that it is way more than just a sleepy town. 

Eastbourne, Mr Smart says, has a “wealth of facilities” for older residents and visitors: the Devonshire Quarter with theatres, a year‑round programme of cultural events, many choirs and church communities, golf and even a top-tier international tennis tournament. He also emphasises its practical advantages, including a compact town centre and the convenience of its walkable nature. “It’s a wonderful place to be a pensioner here,” the councillor says, adding that it isn’t just old people who enjoy Eastbourne.

But Mr Smart is clear-eyed about the problems of the Liberal Democrat town. Behind him, the 1930s bandstand, once a symbol of Eastbourne’s seaside identity, has deteriorated and is now partially closed. Crime has also become a growing concern. He admits Eastbourne “isn’t necessarily worse than anywhere else”, but says there is “too much crime, especially in and around the town centre”.

Eastbourne District Commander, Chief Inspector Kara Tombling, told the Express that while Sussex Police “recognise the concerns raised about crime and anti-social behaviour”, there have been positive changes. In the year to September 2025, Eastbourne recorded 1,872 crimes resulting in successful outcomes – a 32% increase from last year. Looking over a longer timeframe, the number of successful outcomes is 40% higher than in the year to September 2019.

However, Sussex Police data also show that the number of crimes rose from January 2023 to September 2025 by 31% and, according to ONS, its crime rate is the second highest in the Sussex area. In September this year alone, Sussex Police reported 317 incidents in Eastbourne town centre. Most crimes happened near the train station and were related to violent sexual offences and shoplifting. 

Mr Smart links some of this to local hotels and emergency accommodation being used for people from outside the area, including asylum seekers, as well youth crime and limited support for vulnerable people. Local initiatives to combat crime have begun, including Britain’s first use of GPS ankle monitors for prolific shoplifters. Still, Mr Smart argues resources are stretched, calling for more frontline policing and better CCTV coverage.

Housing adds another pressure point. Eastbourne is physically constrained by the sea, protected countryside, and floodplain, which limits expansion. “Therefore, the ability to actually produce more houses is quite a challenge for Eastbourne,” Mr Smart explains. Additionally, many large, empty high-street buildings remain undeveloped despite planning permission, including the former sites of major shops.

Despite the issues, Mr Smart’s overall picture of Eastbourne remains cautiously optimistic. He argues that with “love and attention” through better policing, smarter housing policy, and investment in heritage, Eastbourne can preserve what made it attractive in the first place.

Older residents show mixed feelings about the town. While most feel generally safe and enjoy ageing in Eastbourne, they now feel less comfortable, especially near the station or main shopping streets such as Terminus Road. 

Pauline Young, 76, moved to Eastbourne 16 years ago. “It’s quiet, but there’s also the beach, in the summer we go down to the seafront and have a coffee,” she tells the Express. Yet she has noticed worrying changes. “We get a lot of homeless people here, which is not nice. On many occasions, I’ve been approached by people for money. That’s quite a regular thing, especially now, which is always a bit off-putting.” Still, she adds she feels generally safe where she lives. “It’s a nice little community.”

An 88-year-old pensioner, who wants to remain anonymous, is far more blunt. Asked about what in Eastbourne has changed significantly over the years, he replies: “Everything. Everything.”

“It’s rougher. It was a beautiful town. It was, now it’s not. No one seems to bother,” he adds, contrasting Eastbourne with a decade ago when “you had police on the beat”. The answer to the question of what could make him feel safer is simple: “Die.”

Elizabeth Alexander, 73, does not live in Eastbourne full-time but visits often for shopping and convenience. She believes the high street “has gone downhill”, partly because shops like Primark now charge for bags and have introduced self-service checkouts, which she feels pensioners struggle with. “We didn’t want those machines, so why pay for them?” she says with laughter. Still, she appreciates the variety of stores and finds the town-centre layout, all on one level, helpful given her bad back. She says she feels safe and enjoys summer visits for fish and chips by the sea, even if seagulls sometimes steal a bite. 

The high street changes are also felt by residents themselves. Standing next to a local busker and handing out church leaflets, Ivor Baddick, 79, says that over the years, he has observed the town centre evolve and empty out, with former high-street anchors disappearing. “People used to like going there. They just don’t shop now. I suppose they’re forced online,” he reflects. As the town centre is undergoing constant refurbishment, reactions among locals are mixed. “Lots of people don’t like them, lots of people like them, it’s the inconvenience of change,” he says.  

But not all residents we talk to see Eastbourne in decline. Jean Pertlove is quite content with the state of things. The 90-year-old moved to the town after losing her husband and wanting to be closer to friends. She recalls being well cared for from the moment she arrived, even having a cancerous lump removed shortly after settling in. “They’d done it when I moved here, it was taken away,” she says. For her, life in Eastbourne is “alright, not too bad”. She feels generally safe and enjoys walking by the beach and keeping in touch with neighbours, though she avoids going out at night. And despite hearing others talk about rising crime, she says she personally hasn’t witnessed it.