‘Nothing to see and a dump’ – the Devon gem crowned worst to visit | UK | Travel

I recently visited Devon’s worst-rated destination – although I didn’t know then it would earn that unenviable distinction in this year’s Which? ranking of the best and worst city breaks.

Wells topped the list, followed by York and Liverpool. Torquay, meanwhile, finished near the bottom, just above last-placed Bournemouth, making it the lowest-ranked Devon destination featured.

The seaside town received two stars out of five for cultural attractions, transport links and parking, and three stars for shopping, value for money, attractiveness and crowd levels. Yet after a weekend in Torbay, I came away wondering whether its reputation really tells the whole story.

Torquay sits on the shores of Torbay, part of the English Riviera. The comparison with its French counterpart dates back to Victorian times, when visitors likened the mild climate and scenery of this 22-mile stretch of South Devon coastline to the Riviera, reports Devon Live.

Standing on the promenade in good weather, you can see why. Palm trees sway in the breeze, waves roll onto the sandy shore and white Art Deco buildings overlook the bay. For a moment, it feels more Mediterranean than British.

Look a little closer, though, and the familiar seaside staples come into view: fish and chip shops, buckets and spades, and 2p arcades. I’ve never visited Saint-Tropez, but I suspect those aren’t quite as prominent along the Côte d’Azur.

The weather is another reminder of where you are. A typical July day in Torquay brings temperatures of around 20C and some cloud, rather than the French Riviera’s 29C sunshine.

Still, Torquay seems to attract more than its fair share of criticism. A previous Which? survey named it Britons’ least favourite seaside destination, while The Telegraph placed it 13th among its worst coastal locations. Even one of my taxi drivers described the high street as a “dump”.

My experience was rather different. I left feeling charmed by a resort unlike any other I’ve visited in the UK. And the thing I wish more people knew about Torquay is just how good its food scene is.

There is no shortage of classic cod and chips along the seafront, but its restaurants offer much more. I was invited to the 7 Chefs event on October 4, a seven-hour tour of independent restaurants, with a different chef preparing a seafood dish at each stop.

Our itinerary included braised octopus at the Michelin-starred Elephant, a generous lobster thermidor at the brother-and-sister-run Ollie’s, delicately prepared oysters at No. 7 Fish Bistro and katsu-style mussels at Offshore.

Then came diver-caught scallops at The Yacht, a substantial helping of fish and chips at Pier Point, and cheese with rather too much port at Twenty1 Lounge.

For anyone who loves excellent seafood paired with British wines, the annual event is a treat. It cost £120, although after seven hours of eating and drinking, I felt I might need the remaining 364 days of the year to recover.

“Lightweight,” one of my new dining companions called after me as he ordered another couple of reds and I hauled myself into a taxi.

Food isn’t Torquay’s only attraction. The town is often called ‘the Queen of the English Riviera’, and on a sunny day, with its Art Deco buildings gleaming above the bay, the description feels fitting.

Torbay lies just beyond the western edge of the Jurassic Coast. Its Devonian limestone and red ochre deposits help shape a landscape of striking coastal formations and natural caves, including the wave-cut platform at Berry Head.

A 30-minute drive around the bay took me to Kents Cavern, a prehistoric cave network explored and excavated by remarkably determined Victorians. Its stalactites, stalagmites and significant scientific finds – including an enormous bear skull – make it a fascinating place to visit.

Nearby is another piece of history, this time from British comedy. The hotel that inspired John Cleese’s Fawlty Towers has gone, replaced by an apartment block and a commemorative blue plaque.

Back on the waterfront, I was impressed by the stamina of my fellow restaurant crawlers. Despite the previous evening’s indulgence, some were ready for a full English breakfast on a sunrise boat trip the next morning. That is a level of dedication I can only admire.

So why does Torquay get such a hard time?

If you book a family holiday and spend a week sheltering from the rain, disappointment is understandable. Nor should the attractive waterfront distract from the concerns of people who live here.

Some residents are increasingly frustrated by the high street, with parts of town beyond the seafront falling into decline.

Local Sophie Ellis-Marsden said: “I avoid that end of town. I don’t have much nice to say, to be honest. The waterfront is lovely, and that’s the only thing that is. It’s nice, don’t get me wrong, I moved here from Milton Keynes for the sea, but it needs more work. More shops just seem to be shutting down. Everything’s gone, and I don’t really know why.”

Those concerns deserve to be heard. But so does the other side of Torquay: its waterfront, fascinating caves and, above all, the independent restaurants that made my weekend so memorable.

Some locals have grown increasingly disheartened by the state of the high street, with areas beyond the seafront and out of tourists’ sight having fallen into decline. Local Sophie Ellis-Marsden explained: “I avoid that end of town. I don’t have much nice to say, to be honest. The waterfront is lovely, and that’s the only thing that is. It’s nice, don’t get me wrong, I moved here from Milton Keynes for the sea, but it needs more work. More shops just seem to be shutting down. Everything’s gone, and I don’t really know why.”

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