In recent years, many of Spain’s most famous destinations – Barcelona, Madrid and Seville – have become busier than ever. Streets that were once filled with locals going about their daily lives are now packed with tour groups, selfie sticks and hordes of tourists rushing to tick the next landmark off their bucket list. While their beauty is undeniable, it is hard to see why many holidaymakers are now on the hunt for somewhere where they can witness the real Spain, without the crowds.
Tucked away in Andalusia’s sun-soaked southwest, lies a beautiful city just a stone’s throw from Cadiz but feels like a well-kept secret hiding in plain sight. Jerez de la Frontera has long been known to Spaniards for three things – sherry, horses and flamenco. But beyond this lies a city boasting castles and ruins, medieval churches, vibrant plazas and a vibe so far removed from the chaos of the bigger cities that you almost feel like a local.
“It’s a really lovely Spanish city to get to know and feel like a local,” wrote travel addict Liz from the blog Young Adventuress.
Jerez is the birthplace of sherry, and its bodegas are central to its identity. There are more than enough aging wineries to tour, with both sweet and dry sherries ready to be tasted. For example, built in honour of Queen Isabella II of Spain, Real Bodega de La Concha’s unique and revolutionary architecture was designed by iconic French engineer Gustave Eiffel and houses 206 butts of La Concha Amontillado – a medium-dry sherry aged in oak casks.
While Seville often claims the spotlight for flamenco, many insist that Jerez is its real home. Here, intimate peñas (clubs) host evenings where music and dance ring out into the night, often accompanied by singing from locals. The best time to visit is during their feria, the traditional festival in Andalusia, when everyone dresses up in traditional flamenco costumes and parties from dusk till dawn. Next year, it will take place from May 9 to 16.
One of the city’s most striking landmarks sits right in the old town – Alcázar of Jerez. This 11th-century Moorish fortress rises out of the city, complete with thick stone walls, defensive towers and gatehouses that once protected the city when it was a frontier stronghold between Muslim and Christian kingdoms.
Inside, the atmosphere is calmer than you might expect from a military fortress. There are serene gardens, old Arab baths, and the remains of a mosque later turned into a chapel. From the top of its towers, you can see the terracotta rooftops of Jerez and the spire of the city’s grand cathedral.
Jerez is filled with echoes of its medieval past, especially in its narrow lanes of the old quarter, which still follow old street patterns and whitewashed buildings hide secret courtyards. Just outside the city you’ll also find a scattering of castles that once guarded trade routes across Andalusia. For example, a short drive will take you to to Medina Sidonia, a site even older than Jerez. Medina Sidonia’s ruined castle sits on one of Andalusia’s highest hilltops, offering panoramic views across the Cadiz province. On a clear day, you can even see as far as the Strait of Gibraltar.
Jerez is on the train line between Seville and Cadiz and there is a small airport (XRY), where TUI and Jet2 offer seasonal flights from across the UK, including Stansted from next May. There are also frequent buses around Andalusia and the rest of Spain.
This story originally appeared on Express.co.uk
