Like the rest of Cambodia, Siem Reap is emerging from a sad, dark past. Decades of war and unrest resulted in an enormous loss of life and a deep and gaping wound in the country’s cultural heritage, artistic capacity, and, more broadly, its educated class.
During the Khmer Rouge rule in the 1970s, two million Cambodians were killed, including an estimated 90 percent of intellectuals and artists. Some escaped to Thailand, France, Japan, and other countries, providing refuge. The Cambodian civil war further weakened the country and its resources before ending in 1991.
Considering this developing country’s troubled past, it may be surprising how quickly fashion designers and creatives have stepped onto the international stage to showcase what the Kingdom offers.
Success may be attributed to several factors. Internationally trained Cambodian artists are returning and rediscovering their country’s story and educating others in its ancient crafts. International artisans are lured to this awakening country with its exquisite raw materials and rich cultural heritage. Others coming to assist the recovery are helping locals develop self-supporting creative industries.
Perhaps a testament to the natural creativity of the Cambodian people is the engineering, grandeur, artistry, and sophistication of the ancient Khmer capital, Angkor Wat, and its magnificent ruins dating back to the 9th to 15th centuries. Today, with nearly 60 percent of the country’s population in the highly productive ages of 15 to 54, Cambodia harnesses that creativity as it looks to make up lost time.
Let me introduce you to local and international creatives garnering international attention and acclaim while adding to Cambodia’s new and exciting artistic story.
Romyda Keth
Leaving Cambodia at just five with her diplomatic corps parents, as the troubles started in 1971, meant growing up in Prague and then Paris for Romyda Keth. After studying at Ecole des Beaux-Arts de Paris, she entered the Parisian Esmod School of Fashion Design.
Spotting talent, the US department store chain Macy’s offered Romyda a position as a designer even before she had completed her apprenticeship program. Romyda also began showcasing her collections in small Paris boutiques in concert with a hat designer friend. Fashion shows, media coverage in prestigious women’s magazines, and the acclaim of her first customers followed.
With her Biologist husband’s prompting, Romyda finally returned, with their two children, to the country of her roots in 1994. Cambodia had little in the way of infrastructure to assist in the development of her work. With clients in Paris still clamoring for Romyda’s creations, a makeshift workshop was set up in a corner of her home. The country’s riches of embroidery techniques, high-quality Khmer silk, organza, and the diversity of colors became new loves adding inspiration for Romyda women’s wear lines.
Romyda’s client base is active women who want to exude elegance in every situation. Her patterns are undeniably feminine, with garments highlighting the figure and fitting the curves. Coloring is a harmonious blend of shades and materials, versatile and high-quality. Global luminaries like Christine Lagarde, Managing Director of the International Monetary Fund (IMF), have been entranced by Romyda Keth’s designs.
Nearly three decades later, Romyda has her beautiful atelier and showrooms in Phnom Penh, Ambre boutiques in Siem Reap and Raffles Phnom Penh, and partner stores in Tokyo, Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Australia, plus Houston, Texas.
Eric Raisina
Madagascan-born and Paris-trained Eric Raisina is a master of textile and fashion. Turning down a design role with Yves Saint Laurent, Eric moved to Siem Reap in 2001 to explore Khmer artisanal silk weaving. He is now considered one of Cambodia’s most internationally renowned fashion designers, having called the country home for the last two decades.
Though Cambodia is home, Paris remains his fashion playground. A lover of the 1920s golden age of French haute couture, he studied at the Duperré School of Applied Arts and the Institut Français de la Mode. Eric has collaborated with such luminaries as Christian Lacroix and Yves Saint Laurent. His seasonal collections feature at international fashion shows, including Paris. Until recently, he had a boutique in the French capital.
His hyper-creative and enchanting clothes are distinguished by his use of vibrant colors and textures, such as his own silk ‘fur’ and ‘raffia’ innovations. Eric’s apparel also showcases the skill of local craftspersons, who, with his guidance, have revitalized the art of weaving luxurious Cambodian silk using multiple looms. The pandemic saw the closure of his Couture House; however, Eric Raisina Haute Texture remains available in his central Siem Reap boutique.
International flights are returning visitors to Siem Reap. However, it is the exclusive charter flights with fashion and art-conscious clientele who are now securing private showings and seeking time with this creative titan. Even famous Siem Reap visitors, including Angelina Jolie, have been sure to grab their own Eric Raisina original while in town.
Kingdom Of Wow (KOW)
Embracing slow fashion, the ethical brand Kingdom of Wow (KOW) combines everyday luxury with sustainability. Made in Siem Reap, they produce footwear that’s comfortable, stylish, and made to last. All products are handmade with raw materials sourced responsibly by local women who earn fair wages in a safe and empowering workspace. Kingdom of Wow footwear encourages a gentler pace and discovery of hygge, a Scandinavian concept of creating a mood of cozy contentment that fosters wellness and self-care.
Formerly a diplomat in Shanghai before moving to Cambodia with her family, Dutch national Godie van De Paal wanted to keep a fantastic, handmade product alive and produced ethically. Godie explains, “I’ve worn hand-crocheted wool slippers for as long as I can remember. I purchased mine from a lady that unraveled old sweaters and repurposed the wool. When she retired, I asked if I could take forward her concept.”
Several years into the business, the designs have evolved. The hand-crochet remains the same, but the repurposed yarn is replaced with a rich blend of Lopi wool and eco-friendly bamboo with supple leather soles added. The footwear is handmade “from thread to toe.” A year ago, women’s and men’s espadrilles were introduced to the range.
Having purchased a pair of wool slippers, Dutch luxury shoe designer Floris van Bommel was so enamored; he secured a co-branded range of KOW footwear for his clientele. Features in Vogue, plus dedicated shows at New York and Paris Fashion weeks, have certainly got people talking—Godie and her team dream of seeing Snoop Dogg all hygge in a pair of their handmade slippers.
KOW footwear is available through their (US and EU) websites and selected retail outlets in Siem Reap.
MANAVA
Netherlands-born Ka-Lai Chan completed a product design degree from the University of Arts in Utrecht. Since 2009, she has worked as an independent designer with several international design brands. In 2016 on a two-month volunteer opportunity to Cambodia, she began to realize a dream.
Ka-Lai researched local traditional arts, spending time with families in the countryside. She was captivated by the country, the genuine, cheerful, and relaxed people, and the stunning crafts. She also realized that behind the smiles, they were struggling to support their families. Many had incredible weaving skills yet only earned a monthly average of $50 to $70.
Utilizing her design and entrepreneurial skills, Ka-Lai partnered with Baraing Tho, a local Khmer creative with the same vision, creating MANAVA. Translated from Sanskrit, MANAVA means humankind. MANAVA supports these rural women, providing them with a stable and sustainable future while further developing their traditional weaving crafts.
Villagers sustainably harvest a thin fast-growing “pdau” rattan palm and a willow grass called “la paek.” After drying for a month and stripping, the willows are ready for molding and weaving. With creative input from the weavers, the hand-woven bags, baskets, or other pieces are created – taking up to three days. Natural plant dyes add decorative color to the pieces. MANAVA is currently providing 24 female artisans with a fair income.
MANAVA’s fashion products are available through their website and selected retail outlets in Siem Reap. Additionally, thanks to exposure at the “Maison et Objet” design trade fair in Paris last year, European retailers are picking up these hand-crafted, well-designed artisanal pieces with a tremendous sustainable back-story.
This story originally appeared on Upscalelivingmag
