The art of fashion is often at its most breathtaking when it becomes a vessel for storytelling, and CHANEL’s Métiers d’Art collections are a testament to this ethos. Since 2002, these annual showcases have transcended the traditional runway format, highlighting the extraordinary craft and savoir-faire of the artisans who breathe life into the Maison’s creative vision. At the heart of this preservation lies le19M, CHANEL’s hub in Paris dedicated to its Métiers d’Art—a sanctuary where embroidery, feather work, goldsmithing, and millinery flourish. Here, the traditions of craftsmanship are not merely honoured; they are elevated into the realm of art.
For the 2024/25 Métiers d’Art collection, CHANEL embarks on a poetic journey to Hangzhou, China, presenting a collection deeply rooted in the spirit of Gabrielle Chanel’s beloved Coromandel screens. These intricately lacquered panels adorned her Paris apartment and served as an enduring source of inspiration, reflecting her fascination with the East. Hangzhou’s West Lake—a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated for its serene beauty and cultural resonance—provided an idyllic backdrop for unveiling this dreamlike collection.
As the models glided across runways designed to appear as they floated on the water, the collection unfurled as a love letter to artistry and exploration. With its blend of traditional Chinese aesthetics and CHANEL’s iconic codes, the show not only celebrated Gabrielle Chanel’s legacy but also underscored the Maison’s commitment to bridging cultures through timeless craftsmanship.
CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2024/25: A Dreamlike Showcase in Hangzhou
Nestled in the heart of Zhejiang Province, the historic city of Hangzhou became the latest destination for CHANEL’s much-anticipated Métiers d’Art 2024/25 show. The choice of location was anything but incidental. Hangzhou, known for its lush green landscapes and the legendary West Lake, has long been a muse for artists, poets, and travellers. A UNESCO World Heritage site, West Lake served as the show’s magical stage at nightfall, echoing the tranquillity and poetic charm of Gabrielle Chanel’s cherished Coromandel screens.
These lacquered Chinese screens, which adorned the walls of Gabrielle Chanel’s Paris apartment at 31 rue Cambon, are more than decorative objects; they reflect the designer’s fascination with the East. One screen, in particular, depicting West Lake, inspired the collection and the decision to hold this year’s show in Hangzhou. The result was a celebration of cultural dialogue, bridging the Maison’s storied Parisian roots with China’s artistic and historical richness.
The exclusive guest list included CHANEL ambassadors Tilda Swinton, Xin Zhilei, and Leah Dou, who played prominent roles in a Wim Wenders-directed short film released before the show. This cinematic introduction, blending the mystique of Coromandel screens with the ethereal beauty of Hangzhou, set the tone for an event that transcended fashion. Swinton, known for her avant-garde elegance, described the show as “a poetic voyage,” perfectly encapsulating its atmosphere.
CHANEL’s decision to bring its Métiers d’Art collection to China also signals a strategic emphasis on the region’s growing importance in the luxury market. With its mix of tradition and modernity, Hangzhou offered the perfect backdrop for a collection steeped in heritage yet forward-looking in its execution. This is particularly significant in a year of transition for the Maison, as it awaits the appointment of a new creative director following Virginie Viard’s departure in June 2024.
The choice of Hangzhou also highlights CHANEL’s commitment to celebrating the artisans behind the collection. By showcasing the work of its Maisons d’art in a city synonymous with craftsmanship and cultural heritage, CHANEL reinforces the importance of preserving and elevating artisanal skills. The artisans of le19M—including embroiderers, feather workers, goldsmiths, and milliners—played a central role in transforming the creative vision of the CHANEL studio into a collection that radiated artistry and innovation.
Ultimately, the Métiers d’Art 2024/25 show in Hangzhou wasn’t just about fashion—it was a symphony of culture, artistry, and history. Against the luminous backdrop of West Lake, CHANEL reaffirmed its ability to create moments that transcend the runway, offering a masterclass in how tradition and modernity can coexist in harmony. This choice of venue and inspiration stands as a powerful testament to the Maison’s dedication to exploring new horizons while staying rooted in its timeless legacy.
The Métiers d’Art 2024/25 Collection – A Masterpiece Unveiled
As dusk fell over Hangzhou’s West Lake, CHANEL unveiled the 2024/25 Métiers d’Art collection with an ethereal runway show that was as much a visual spectacle as it was a tribute to the Maison’s storied craftsmanship. The floating runways, designed to appear as though models were walking on water, set the stage for a collection steeped in poetic elegance and cultural resonance. Inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s cherished Coromandel screens, the show blended Chinese artistry with CHANEL’s iconic codes, creating a seamless dialogue between tradition and modernity.
Key Looks and Features
The collection opened with dramatic long coats in midnight black tweed, setting a quiet, sophisticated tone. These were followed by a parade of silhouettes celebrating intricate detailing: phosphorescent braids, embroidered floral motifs, and envelope-shaped pockets. A palette of jade green, blush pink, and sky blue evoked the lacquered brilliance of the Coromandel screens, while the textures—satin, velvet, and tweed—spoke of refined luxury.
Signature CHANEL elements were reimagined with a contemporary twist. Tweed jackets, some cropped to reveal patterned bodysuits, were paired with pleated skirts, wrap trousers, and culottes, demonstrating an artful approach to layering. Tuxedo jackets lined with white satin and styled with culottes captured a modern elegance, while the recurring camellia motif—embroidered by Lesage—reminded viewers of CHANEL’s timeless floral emblem.
Accessories: Travel in Style
The collection also emphasized the theme of travel, with models carrying vanity cases, travel bags, and pillow-shaped handbags. Footwear took a bold turn, featuring thigh-high boots, mid-calf boots, and pointed slippers in black patent leather, courtesy of Massaro. The accessories were equally compelling, with medallions and cuffs crafted by Goossens, referencing ancient Chinese prunus flowers and fruits. Hats by Maison Michel and beanies and scarves added to the dreamy, romantic aesthetic.
Romantic Textures and Dreamlike Details
A recurring theme in the collection was the interplay between softness and structure. Pleats and frills, created by Lemarié and Lognon, added volume and movement to the garments. Cloud-shaped pearl necklaces and cushion-like embellishments evoked a dreamlike sensibility, while intricate embroidery and sequins provided a touch of luxury. This duality of craftsmanship—precision paired with poetry—underscored the artistry at the collection’s heart.
Celebrating Savoir-Faire
Every detail of the collection paid homage to the Maisons d’art that contributed to CHANEL’s unparalleled creations. Montex’s embroidery combined ancestral techniques with modern innovation, while Lesage’s tweed weavings blended unexpected materials to reimagine CHANEL’s iconic fabric. Goossens’ metalwork and Lemarié’s featherwork further elevated the collection, showcasing the exceptional skills preserved at le19M.
The Setting: A Cultural Symphony
The setting of West Lake added an almost mythical dimension to the show. Its shimmering waters, surrounded by temples and pagodas, mirrored the lacquered panels of Gabrielle Chanel’s Coromandel screens. The models seemed to glide across the lake, their silhouettes reflecting the serene beauty of the environment. This interplay between fashion and nature enhanced the sense of poetry that defined the collection.
CHANEL’s Métiers d’Art 2024/25 was more than a fashion show—an artistic performance. The blending of Chinese cultural heritage with Maison’s Parisian roots created a collection that was at once timeless and forward-thinking, a testament to CHANEL’s enduring ability to innovate while honouring its legacy. The night concluded with applause and the feeling that viewers had been part of a transcendent moment in fashion history.
Why This Collection is Impressive and What I Particularly Appreciate
The CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2024/25 collection is a masterclass in storytelling through fashion. Its ability to bridge cultural heritages—Parisian elegance and Chinese artistry—is remarkable. What makes this collection exceptional is its meticulous craftsmanship, with each piece reflecting the unparalleled savoir-faire of the Maisons d’art. The embroidered floral motifs by Lesage, the ethereal featherwork by Lemarié, and the gleaming accessories by Goossens collectively demonstrate the artistry at the heart of CHANEL’s creations.
We particularly appreciate how the collection marries tradition with innovation. Jade green, pink, and sky-blue hues—reminiscent of Coromandel screens—bring a fresh vibrancy to classic CHANEL designs. The travel-inspired accessories, from pillow handbags to vanity cases, capture the spirit of adventure while maintaining a luxurious sensibility. Additionally, the runway itself, floating over the tranquil waters of West Lake, provided a setting that perfectly mirrored the poetic beauty of the collection. It’s a testament to CHANEL’s unique ability to create fashion and immersive experiences that linger in the imagination.
The Stars Behind the Scenes: Maisons d’Art in the CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2024/25 Show
At the heart of every CHANEL Métiers d’Art collection lies the extraordinary craftsmanship of the Maisons d’Art, a constellation of specialized ateliers whose unparalleled skills transform creative visions into reality. For the 2024/25 Métiers d’Art show in Hangzhou, these artisans showcased their brilliance once again, contributing intricate details and innovative techniques to Gabrielle Chanel’s tribute to Coromandel screens. Let’s dive into the heritage and contributions of the key Maisons d’Art in this breathtaking collection.
Atelier Montex: Masters of Contemporary Embroidery
Inception and Expertise
Founded in 1939, Montex has become synonymous with embroidery that blends ancestral techniques with modern artistry. Using tools such as the Lunéville crochet hook and the century-old Cornely embroidery machine, Montex produces intricate and avant-garde patterns. Since joining CHANEL’s Métiers d’Art in 2011, Montex has consistently elevated the Maison’s collections with bold and innovative designs.
Contribution to the 2024/25 Collection
For this year’s Métiers d’Art show, Montex brought Coromandel screen motifs to life through elaborate floral embroidery. From jade green florals to shimmering metallic accents, their craftsmanship added depth and texture to the collection’s sweeping coats, jumpsuits, and tailored jackets. The precision of their needlework was particularly evident in the phosphorescent braids, which shimmered against the dark palette, creating a mesmerizing effect under the nightfall of West Lake.
Lesage: Embroiderers and Masters of Tweed Innovation
Inception and Expertise
Founded in 1924, Lesage has long been a cornerstone of haute couture embroidery, collaborating with the world’s most fabulous designers. A partner of CHANEL since 1983 and officially part of the Métiers d’Art family since 2002, Lesage is celebrated not only for its breathtaking embroidery but also for reinventing tweed, one of CHANEL’s most iconic materials. Lesage’s Parisian atelier is home to an unrivalled collection of over 75,000 embroidery samples and a school dedicated to passing on its craft.
Contribution to the 2024/25 Collection
Lesage’s contributions this year were nothing short of extraordinary. They created rich, multicoloured tweeds that incorporated unexpected materials, such as silk threads and metallic elements, echoing the lacquered brilliance of Coromandel screens. Their embroidery adorned jackets, dresses, and skirts with delicate floral patterns and shimmering sequins, embodying both luxury and elegance. The intricate bodysuits layered under cropped jackets were a standout example of their unparalleled expertise.
Lemarié: Feather Workers and Floral Alchemists
Inception and Expertise
Established in 1880, Lemarié has been a pioneer in feather artistry and floral embellishments. Renowned for handcrafting CHANEL’s signature camellia since the 1960s, Lemarié specialises in couture sewing techniques, pleating, and textile embellishments. Their draught-free workshops ensure that each feather and petal is treated with the utmost care.
Contribution to the 2024/25 Collection
For the Métiers d’Art 2024/25 show, Lemarié’s artistry was evident in the soft pleats and ethereal floral motifs adorned the collection. Feathers, meticulously sorted and curled, added an otherworldly touch to evening gowns and capes. Lemarié also created delicate smocks and inlays on skirts and blouses, adding dimension and movement. Their floral embellishments, inspired by the exotic blooms depicted on Coromandel screens, were a poetic nod to Gabrielle Chanel’s love of nature.
Goossens: Goldsmiths of Elegance
Inception and Expertise
Founded by Robert Goossens in 1950, the Goossens atelier has been crafting exquisite jewellery and objects that blend sculpture with goldsmithing. From Byzantine-inspired designs to modern creations, Goossens has long been a favourite of CHANEL, even designing furniture for Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment. The atelier became part of the Métiers d’Art in 2005.
Contribution to the 2024/25 Collection
Goossens’ jewellery and accessories for the Métiers d’Art show were inspired by Chinese iconography, including flowers, fruits, and the ancient prunus tree. Gold cuffs, medallions, and necklaces adorned with intricate engravings added a regal touch to the collection. The shimmering metallic tones complemented the collection’s dreamy aesthetic, bridging the traditional and contemporary gap.
Massaro: The Art of Handmade Shoes
Inception and Expertise
Since 1894, Massaro has been synonymous with bespoke shoemaking. Their collaboration with CHANEL began in 1957 with the creation of the two-tone shoe, a design that has since become iconic. Joining the Métiers d’Art in 2002, Massaro continues to craft footwear that combines elegance and comfort.
Contribution to the 2024/25 Collection
Massaro’s shoes were a statement in this year’s show, from patent leather thigh-high boots to mid-calf boots reminiscent of Gabrielle Chanel’s personal style. Pointed slippers and embellished boots added a sense of drama to the collection, perfectly complementing the tailored silhouettes. Each pair was meticulously handcrafted, a testament to Massaro’s dedication to perfection.
Maison Michel: The Hatmakers of CHANEL
Inception and Expertise
Founded in 1936, Maison Michel is renowned for its handcrafted hats, caps, and veils. With a history of hatmaking in Paris dating back to the 14th century, the atelier has preserved its savoir-faire while continually innovating. It became part of the Métiers d’Art in 1997 and is responsible for many of CHANEL’s iconic headpieces.
Contribution to the 2024/25 Collection
For this collection, Maison Michel designed beanies, berets, and scarves that captured the romanticism of the Coromandel-inspired theme. Each hat was meticulously handcrafted using techniques perfected over decades. The headpieces were adorned with braids, feathers, and flowers, enhancing the collection’s dreamlike aesthetic.
A Collective Triumph
The CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2024/25 collection celebrates artistry in its purest form. Each Maison d’Art brought its unique heritage and expertise to the table, contributing to a collection that was as rich in craftsmanship as it was in imagination. From the intricate embroidery of Montex and Lesage to the ethereal featherwork of Lemarié, the shimmering metalwork of Goossens, the bespoke shoes of Massaro, and the romantic headpieces of Maison Michel, the artisans behind le19M transformed Gabrielle Chanel’s vision into a poetic reality.
The Métiers d’Art show is not just a showcase of fashion—it is a reminder of the power of human creativity and the importance of preserving these timeless crafts. Against the backdrop of Hangzhou’s West Lake, these ateliers proved once again that their work is the beating heart of CHANEL’s legacy.
To Conclude,
The CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2024/25 collection is more than a tribute to craftsmanship—it celebrates the Maison’s ability to weave a narrative that transcends borders and generations. By drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s Coromandel screens and presenting the collection at the iconic West Lake in Hangzhou, CHANEL underscored its commitment to bridging cultures while honouring its storied past. The collection’s harmonious blend of Eastern artistry and Parisian sophistication reflects CHANEL’s evolving global perspective, particularly its emphasis on the burgeoning Chinese luxury market.
The show itself was a sensory masterpiece, with each element—from the models seemingly walking on water to the intricate details of each silhouette—crafted to evoke a sense of wonder. Against the backdrop of Hangzhou’s tranquil beauty, CHANEL redefined what it means to celebrate artistry in fashion. This year’s Métiers d’Art collection also highlighted the importance of the artisans at le19M, whose exceptional skills ensure that CHANEL’s legacy remains as vibrant as ever.
As CHANEL stands on the cusp of a new era with an upcoming creative director, the Métiers d’Art 2024/25 collection poignantly reminds us of the Maison’s enduring commitment to craftsmanship, cultural dialogue, and innovation. It leaves us not only inspired by the artistry of the present but also hopeful for the future of CHANEL—a future where tradition continues to meet reinvention in the most elegant and unexpected ways.
José Amorim
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This story originally appeared on Luxuryactivist
