Forget Pisa and Florence — I found a walkable Italian city with no crowds in winter | Europe | Travel

Tuscany, in central Italy, is renowned for its rolling hills, picturesque medieval villages, sprawling vineyards and world-famous Renaissance art. With its delicious local cuisine and laid-back lifestyle, the region offers plenty for holidaymakers looking to experience the best of Italy.

Visitors can spend their mornings wandering through historic towns, enjoy leisurely lunches overlooking vineyards and watch the sun set over the countryside with a glass of local wine. I visited the region in late September, but it is worth going in November and December as a winter destination. On average, temperatures in the city are around 15°C in November and around 12°C in December.

Tuscany comprises 10 provinces, with its capital, Florence, renowned for its rich Renaissance heritage, world-famous art and striking architecture.

Other provinces include: Arezzo, Grosseto, Livorno, Massa-Carrara, Pistoia, Prato and Siena.

Spots like Florence and Pisa are often the places you think of when you mention Tuscany, but there is one spot I visited that I absolutely loved and hope to visit again – Lucca.

What is Lucca famous for?

The historic city walls

One of Lucca’s most famous attractions is its four-kilometre circuit of Renaissance walls, constructed between the 16th and 17th centuries. Once built for defence, the walls now serve as a leafy public promenade, offering visitors the chance to walk or cycle while taking in views of the historic city.

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Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is one of Lucca’s most distinctive landmarks. Built on the site of an ancient Roman amphitheatre, the oval-shaped square is lined with colourful buildings, cafés and restaurants, making it a picturesque place to relax and soak up the city’s atmosphere.

I sat down for lunch and enjoyed the lovely views of the square. Prices here tend to be slightly higher, but that’s to be expected. I had boar ravioli for €9.60 (£8.07). It may not sound like much, but the portion was tiny, and I was still pretty hungry afterwards. Something to bear in mind when eating in a tourist hotspot.

The medieval Torre Guinigi is among Lucca’s most unusual sights, recognisable by the oak trees growing in the garden at the top of the tower. Visitors can climb to the summit to enjoy sweeping views across the city’s terracotta rooftops and the Tuscan hills beyond.

The Cathedral of San Martino is renowned for its elaborate Romanesque architecture, intricately decorated marble façade and collection of religious artworks.

Other notable religious landmarks include the Basilica of San Frediano, known for its striking mosaic façade, and the Church of San Michele in Foro, which stands in a historic square in the heart of the city.

When is the best time to visit Tuscany?

During the winter months, Lucca tends to be quieter, making it a good time to explore its museums, historic churches and traditional restaurants.

Lucca is perfect for those who want to get around on foot. We explored the city in half a day without needing public transport, but we would recommend a full day or a few days if you are more flexible with time. However, visitors should be prepared for cooler temperatures and a greater chance of rain.

How to get there?

The easiest way to travel to Lucca from the UK is to fly into Pisa and then continue by train, taxi, or hire car.

By car, the journey typically takes around 30 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic.

By train, travellers can take a train from Pisa Centrale to Lucca railway station, with the journey usually lasting around 25 to 30 minutes. Additional time should be allowed to travel from the airport to Pisa Centrale.

Direct flight prices from London to Pisa cost around £31 for a return in November (at the time of writing) and £32 in December.