Dave with the bell on Riverside Ravel (Image: Dave Monk)
Bit by bit over 33 years, a postman built a quirky palace in his old vegetable garden from rocks he collected in a wheelbarrow during his rounds in rural France. Ferdinand Cheval toiled away for a total of 93,000 hours on the edifice, inspired by images he saw in the magazines and postcards he delivered.
Now the once-abandoned one-man labour of love is welcoming a new wave of visitors drawn to its odd beauty, simplistic sculptures, winding staircases and captivating inscriptions. Temples, animals and even a bizarre depiction of the White House feature in its decorated walls. A few miles away, you can also visit the mausoleum that Ferdinand spent eight years creating after being refused permission to be buried in his unique home.
The palace – which inspired artists such as Picasso – was just one of the highlights of a cruise down the Rhône on luxury ship Riverside Ravel. Of course, there was also plenty of food and wine to enjoy, from a tasting of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to regional dishes served on board every night. One evening I was among a party of six who enjoyed a special seven-course chef’s menu in a private room.
A view of Riverside Ravel (Image: Riverside Cruises)
Another time, all passengers were invited to taste food-and-drink pairings. Off the ship, I also visited a truffle farm and saw colourful Roman mosaics during a four-night voyage from Lyon to Avignon. My adventure began when I boarded the 110-passenger river ship and discovered which of the 55 suites – all served by butlers – was mine.
After a drink in the glass-covered Palm Court lounge and Botanist Bar, some new friends and I headed down a deck to the Waterside restaurant, where I was delighted to see many tables for two, meaning couples don’t have to sit with strangers if they prefer not to.
In the morning, we toured Vienne, which still has a Roman temple at its centre, before moving on to a museum to see some amazingly well-preserved floor and wall decorations. A mixology demonstration after we returned to the ship brought us up to date with some classic – and new – cocktails. Back in my room, preparing for dinner, I pushed a button to lower the top half of a floor-to-ceiling window to admire the sunset as we sailed towards Tain l’Hermitage for the coach trip to Ferdinand’s palace the next morning.
In the evening our group of six dined in The Vintage Room, a £280-a-head table where chef Jose Antonio Vela presented plates including scallop ravioli, veal tenderloin and Granny Smith and basil sorbet while sommelier Johnny Hanganut expertly explained about the exquisite wines he was serving.
Arriving the next day in Viviers, I joined an outing to a truffle farm to learn about the prized ‘black diamonds’ unearthed by specially trained dogs – including a cute springer spaniel called Romy – and returned to a food and wine odyssey on board, matching local vintages with cheeses, truffle butter, nougat and chocolate. If that weren’t enough, we took a coach in the evening to a cellar for a tasting of four red and wine wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Thoroughly imbued with the flavours and tastes of France, I left the ship in Avignon the next morning and walked a few minutes to the famous bridge before my transfer to Marseille airport.
Riverside Ravel is not your typical riverboat. On its sun deck is a literal pop-up bar which sinks back down into the decking if the ship is approaching low bridges. As well as the Waterside restaurant, there is a more casual Atelier cafe and even a popcorn machine, as well as 24-hour room service – delivered by your butler, of course. You can also ask him – they were all men on our cruise – to pack your bag, shine your shoes or sort out your laundry. Alternatively, there was a self-service washroom in the depths, on the same deck as a spa with a single treatment room. Though I was tempted by a relaxing massage, I instead took a dip in the indoor swimming pool.
Dave at Ferdinand’s palace (Image: Dave Monk)
Having first boarded Ravel during its christening under previous owners in 2018, I was delighted that, eight years on, it still looks like new with its spacious suites and elegant public areas. Dress code in the main restaurant is smart casual – no jeans, but no need for a jacket or tie either. The Rhône is a beautiful area to explore, with its pretty towns, vineyard-covered hills and 12 locks, which our ship just about nudged into. And, like all river cruises, you have the advantages of constant scenery, stops in the middle of towns, some overnight stays and a more relaxed vibe than many ocean voyages.
It’s not all indulgence. Active excursions included an e-bike ride to – guess what – a vineyard, or a hike in the Ardèche gorge. All in all, it was a memorable break, enhanced by such simple joys as having a delicious croque monsieur delivered to my suite one lunchtime when I didn’t fancy walking down the corridor for a buffet meal.
And who provided this treat? Turns out, the butler did it. And, like Ferdinand the postman, his delivery was first class.
Book the holiday
A four-night Lyon, Avignon and Châteauneuf-du-Pape cruise on Riverside Ravel, leaving Lyon on April 4, 2027, starts from £2,499pp. Find out more and book at riverside-cruises.com.
This story originally appeared on Express.co.uk
